Body and sub-rails

With a nice body like this, I figured I may not even need the welder...

Yeah, right...

Turns out that the "old guy" used fiberglass tape on the inside lower panels, and then used filler on the outside.

He also "screwed" the rear inner fenders to the body using duct tape as a "gasket". I guess that may have been OK if one had used fenders but I can't live with it...

Also, he had covered the weak rear sub-rails with some 1/8 thick sheet metal.

So out it goes, all of it! You can see the "adjustable" supports holding the quarters in place.

Trust me: I know what some folks starts with, this is nothing, so I guess I am still lucky!

I need new sub-rails anyway, to follow the sexy '32 frame kick up. I shaped metal to follow the frame, then I added 1 X 2 square tubing for strength.

It was then bolted to the frame and welded up.

Sub-rail to go...

"Sub-rail connectors"

The rear corners were a bit weak as well, so I replaced them.

Modified A inner fenders

With the rear lower panel in place, and the trunk opening as square as I can get it, it is tacked together at this point.

If you wonder about those goofy dollies: I live in yuppie neighborhood, so I so don't have five buddies coming over and helping me lifting the body on/off the frame, and they work great, for several reasons:

1. They are built at ride height, and the car sits on it's own suspension, so when I add motor etc I can keep an eye on the rake, without having those purdy (and expensive) Firestone whitewalls in the shop while welding and grinding.

2. I can move the car around in the shop easy.

3.When removing the body, I don't have to lift the body over the wheels when I lift it, I just clear the frame and kick the frame to the side.

Floor

Humptie-Dumtie...
 I was going to get one of those Brookville sedan humps, but I keep forgetting to order one, so I made one. Looks OK I guess... Next, floor sheet metal! 

I had to have something Swedish on the car. The trunk prop is from an early sixties Volvo wagon. It locks in place when you open, then you lift it somewhat, and it releases. I think Ford had something similar in the forties.

Since this car was originally a rumble seat car, I moved the lock to the rear...

...and made an adjustable "striker plate"

The lower panel from Brookville did not have the same radius as the body, so I had to pie cut the inside flange to make it look decent. I spent a lot of time fiddling with the trunk, to make it fit the body. One I get my license light, I can build some inside gutters for the rear panel.

A quick mock-up confirms location of rear hardware.

A gutter system was installed on the rear panel.

It leans slightly outward. Plumbers and roofers will tell you: Stuff runs downhill !

The side gutters need to drain out as well. Here I can see the angle needed to reach the gutter.

Snip, snip...

Like so...

Then I extended the gutter...

Here it drops right in to the gutter. The indentation in the gutter is necessary because of the shape of the trunk when closed. Once primered, I will put some body caulk in the seams, and give it the final paint.

Grille

The '32 grill shell have to be cut down about 2 inches to look right on the Model A on '32 frame. The shell has a nice reveal coming down the hood side, so I decided the extend it along the new cut, for a more finished look.

Using 1/4 inch solid rod, I followed the edge and welded it from the back side.

That looks better. Plus, it hides the mounting hardware for the radiator.

Also, when you cut down the grille shell, the indentation for the mounting screws ends up in the wrong place.

First I eliminated the original indentation.

Then I made a new indentation. Now it looks like it belongs there. Small details, but I think it makes a difference.

More Body

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