1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 7

Nothing like a freshly blasted frame to work with. I want to install boxing plates so having a clean frame will make for good welds.

I used my plasma cutter to make the boxing plates from 1/8 inch steel plate.

I use a 1/2 thick plate as a guide for the plasma cutter to get straight cuts. Tip: Make sure the edge on the guide is smooth so when you drag the cutter along it does not hang up. The smoother the movement, the cleaner the cut.

I heart my plasma cutter. Besides, making it a snap to make the boxing plates I also used to cut needed holes. I made these templates from old bearing races.

Just clamp on and zip around with the plasma cutter.

Done!

The holes are for access points for bolts that hold the body to the frame. Also, some will be used to run wiring.

I set the boxing plates inside the frame about 1/4 inch. This is a win X 4. Why?

Win 1. I don’t have to dress the welds.

Win 2. Grinding the welds would weaken them anyway.

Win 3. The recessed plates offers some extra room and protection for brake and fuel lines.

Win 4. This still leaves a stock and good looking inside edge.

This particular hole is used for holding the fender and also the hood latch. The boxing plates ends up right under this hole so I made an opening just big enough to handle a 7/16 wrench. You know, to hold the nut. It is important to have a firm grip on your nuts.
 With the new Walker radiator in place I can confirm the location of the Volvo engine.
I just had to make sure that the radiator location fits with the location of the body so the hood gaps are acceptable.
 Frame motor mount mounts templated and will be welded to the boxing plates.
This is obviously not a true traditional build, it is going to be a driver with capital “D” so I opted for a new Vega steering box. A little tight with the steering box but it has to be where is has to be. The drag link dictates the location.
Knowing the approximate rake of the frame and body in ride height, I can make sure the engine is level with earth.
Motor mount raw…
Motor mount finished. I love to make parts that looks like they are cast.
I am using Lincoln style Wilson Welding self energizing brakes for the front.
In order to make the Lincoln backing plates fit flush on the spindle flange I had to remove some material to make the flush with the surface.
Good to know info: The part number for the brake hose for the Wilson Lincoln brakes is Wagner # F49927 or NAPA UP36531
I just made some tabs for the hoses.
Since I am going to use a 1932 tank attached to the rear of the frame I had to install the rear shocks in front of the axle. They were mounted directly to the 1936 rods.
The front shocks will be installed using Ford F-100 shock mounts. They will need some modification to fit under the fenders.
I love the smell of excited molecules in the morning.
Mo later…

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 6

I decided this car should have A/C and there is not a good way to hide the evaporator in a model A grille.

So…the decision was made to procure one of them fancy-schmancy 1932 grille. As the grille sits further forward on the radiator and it has a separate insert it will be easier to hide the evaporator.

I ordered the radiator from Walker. I got a four row unit made for a hot small block. Why? ‘Cause I may want one of those some day. Since the inlet/outlet is at the same location on the Volvo engine, all I have to do is add some adapters.

It may seem premature to order the radiator at this stage but the thickness and location will determine the engine location.

Using an old Ford to haul old Ford parts. The frame is going to blasting so I have a clean surface to install boxing plates.1966 Ford F100 4X4 short bed is a great work horse.

The firewall have this indentation for the fuel outlet.

Because A/C I will need all the under dash space I can get so the that funky indentation need to be gone.

I also carried the bottom ridge across the firewall for a consistent look.

The OCD in me want to remove the driver’s side bead but I am going to run swing pedals and they add strength to the firewall.

More OCD issues. The firewall brackets for the hood rods were in good condition but I had to remove them as there could be some crud behind them…and there were…some…crud. I feel better now!

The wood under the visor was replaced at some point but it did not fit well so I decided to remove it.

 

Wood header gone!

The vinyl used for the top was in good condition but it was un-even and kinda lumpy so it had to go as well. This OCD condition is really a problem!!

Since the windshield is attached to the wood header I had to come up with an alternative. This flat bar with nuts welded to it will now hold the windshield.

The windshield frame had several holes presumably from a wiper assembly. Since my wiper motor is now going to be hidden in the header panel, the are no longer needed.

Do you know where holes go after they are punched out? Well, some companies sells them to guys like me.

I made this “spade” of copper to hold the filler piece. Weld does not stick to copper.

Also, I use the copper when I weld up the smaller holes, it prevent the melted steel to blow out on the other side.

Works like a charm.
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Jumping around a bit but there is a lot to cover:

This is the base for steel railing and I am sure you can picture this part bolted to the floor. I found this at a steel supply house for a $1.50 and it will be perfect as the base for the steering column.

 I spent a fair amount of time repairing the sheet metal on the aprons due to stress cracks. No rust, just stress cracks.

These are seats from a 1964 MG Midget. They will be great for this hot rod.

You can go out and spend lots of money are snazzy pedal assemblies or…cut these out of a scrapped Volvo. Since I am using a Volvo engine it makes sense to use these. The clutch is hydraulic and we know the geometry will be perfect. They are light weight, have internal returns springs, quiet nylon bushings, tapered and hollow. Did I say they are good looking too??

Held in place with a clamp they look like they will be perfect. More on this later…

One concern with the 1932 grille shell was if the hood line would be correct. Well, this profile picture confirms that it will be…you know…perfect.

Of course, with a profile picture like this I just had to do a little Photo Chopping. I don’t think I will chop this car the first season but damn, that look pretty good!

Part Seven here