Nothing like a freshly blasted frame to work with. I want to install boxing plates so having a clean frame will make for good welds.
I used my plasma cutter to make the boxing plates from 1/8 inch steel plate.
I use a 1/2 thick plate as a guide for the plasma cutter to get straight cuts. Tip: Make sure the edge on the guide is smooth so when you drag the cutter along it does not hang up. The smoother the movement, the cleaner the cut.
I heart my plasma cutter. Besides, making it a snap to make the boxing plates I also used to cut needed holes. I made these templates from old bearing races.
Just clamp on and zip around with the plasma cutter.
The holes are for access points for bolts that hold the body to the frame. Also, some will be used to run wiring.
I set the boxing plates inside the frame about 1/4 inch. This is a win X 4. Why?
Win 1. I don’t have to dress the welds.
Win 2. Grinding the welds would weaken them anyway.
Win 3. The recessed plates offers some extra room and protection for brake and fuel lines.
Win 4. This still leaves a stock and good looking inside edge.
This particular hole is used for holding the fender and also the hood latch. The boxing plates ends up right under this hole so I made an opening just big enough to handle a 7/16 wrench. You know, to hold the nut. It is important to have a firm grip on your nuts.
With the new Walker radiator in place I can confirm the location of the Volvo engine.
I just had to make sure that the radiator location fits with the location of the body so the hood gaps are acceptable.
Frame motor mount mounts templated and will be welded to the boxing plates.
This is obviously not a true traditional build, it is going to be a driver with capital “D” so I opted for a new Vega steering box. A little tight with the steering box but it has to be where is has to be. The drag link dictates the location.
Knowing the approximate rake of the frame and body in ride height, I can make sure the engine is level with earth.
Motor mount raw…
Motor mount finished. I love to make parts that looks like they are cast.
I am using Lincoln style Wilson Welding self energizing brakes for the front.
In order to make the Lincoln backing plates fit flush on the spindle flange I had to remove some material to make the flush with the surface.
Good to know info: The part number for the brake hose for the Wilson Lincoln brakes is Wagner # F49927 or NAPA UP36531
I just made some tabs for the hoses.
Since I am going to use a 1932 tank attached to the rear of the frame I had to install the rear shocks in front of the axle. They were mounted directly to the 1936 rods.
The front shocks will be installed using Ford F-100 shock mounts. They will need some modification to fit under the fenders.
I love the smell of excited molecules in the morning.