1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 4

Came up with a name for this build:

Project Swedish Banger Tudor 

Stress cracks fixed. Once I made sure the frame was square, I also welded all the cross members to the frame rails. This helped the rigidity greatly. If I were to put a V8 in this thing I would have blasted the frame and installed boxing plates but I am also trying to get on the road this year.

.I will use tube shocks so I will not need the dog bone attachment so it was cut off. It makes the spring hanger look cleaner anyway.

I will use polyurethane bushings in the shackles so these sleeves have to be removed. After 87 years they tend to be kinda stuck but a little heat and measured amount of violence will bring them out.

This is the stuff ricers use in their poly bushings to avoid squeak. Bushing squeak sux especially if you don’t have a radio to drown out the noise!

These are 1940 Ford rear torque rods and they are much stronger and they look better than the model A part. Since I am going to loose the torque tube and run a open drive shaft, I will need some sort of torque rods for the rear axle as well.

The front end will consist of split 1936 wishbones, a 4 inch dropped axle and a reversed eye spring, self energizing Lincoln brakes, Wilson hubs and Buick finned aluminum drums. I love self energizing brakes, I just hate to have to energize them myself!
I would love an original Ford dropped axle but time demanded a quick solution. Because of the dropped axle I will have to use deep drop steering arms to clear the wish bones. a Vega box with cross steer will help this hot rod go down the road straight.
So where are we going to put this engine? How about right about here…?

I had to angle the left motor mount to clear the location of the Vega steering box. Maybe not pretty but it works. Chrome Swedish valve cover on dirty motor for effect!

There…engine is mounted.

I am telling you…Henry planned for a Volvo with four speed overdrive in the model A chassis!

Sometimes you have to roll it out for perspective. Now I realized that I need to make the trans cross member the attachment point for both front bones AND the 1940 rear radius rods.

Mo later…