1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 8

It’s been a while since I had time to work on the Swedish Banger Tudor. I am starting a vintage motorcycle showroom so we are busy getting bikes ready to sell. However, some progress was made this week:

After some machine work, the Lincoln brakes joined forces with the Buick aluminum brake drums. I decided to use Lincoln style self energizing brakes on this hot rod. It is going to be a DRIVER so stopping power is good. These are made by Wilson Welding and the quality is excellent.

I opted for the old school 45 fin Buick aluminum brake drums. These also came with 90 fins on the later model Buicks but it would not have the same look. Even though it is a full fendered car, the brake drums will be visible.

The dude that build the firewall miss judged the position of the engine…ahem, that would be your’s truly! With the new radiator with condenser for A/C, the radiator is thicker and the engine had to go back about 1/2 inch. I have to make a small notch here to clear the engine.

The late fifties Volvo 444 dash cluster looks right at home in the 1932 dash.

 

I cut and welded a old timey swan shifter to the Volvo shifter. It came out less than 2 inches from the original location.

 A quick mock up with the MG seat. Looks pretty comfy to me.

So if I fix the space against the firewall the little four banger looks like it is made for it.

I was told by various sources that when using 1940 style hydraulic brakes on a model A axle, I had to “clock” the brake cylinder at about 11:00 or 1:00 o’clock in order to clear the spring perch. Turns out that I only have to remove some material and it fits fine. I will clean up the hole and make a cover to keep dust out.

Mo later…

Model A Build Articles

Due to some asshole HACK trying to install malicious software, I had to delete a bunch of directories. That included all build articles of the Rolf Coupe.

I am PISSED. I lot of folks have contacted me and I am sorry! 

All I have left is the finished pics that can be found here

1931 Ford model A Traditional hot rodThere is a special place in hell for hackers that just destroys other folks property.

Ed Roth’s Cars

I recent pod cast from Sweden about American cars brought up Ed Roth and how he was way more than a car builder. He was an amazing artist in so many ways.

That got me looking in my old “photo album”. For you millenials, it worked like this:

  • You first bought a roll of light sensitive material made from celluloid that could hold 24 or 36 pictures.
  • You stuffed said roll in your 2 lbs camera and took pictures.
  • Then you got in your 10 mpg Yank Tank and drove to some store for them in to be developed to little hard 3X5 inch paper cards.
  • A week later, you could drive back and pick them up and at a cost of about $10.00 for 36 pictures. Since this is the first time you see your work,  you probably end up throwing away half of them as they did not turn out.
  • Then you go to the book shelf and open up a huge hard backed book with clear plastic inserts and you put your little pictures in the pockets.

ANYWAY…I was walking around in So cal sometime in 1979, I THINK it was in Santa Ana. I stumbled across a nondescript building that said car museum or something like that. I had to walk in. The place was full of cars I had only seen in the movies. I apologize for dark photos as they are scan of said paper copies.

Rotax

My notes on the back of this space ship said: Dual Triumph engines capable of 15 mph. I recall that the sign said something like this: Roth built this vehicle for a movie but the director got inpatient with the progress of the build. The director told Roth that it is only going to be backed out of a garage anyway and walked away. Roth build the car so it only went backwards. (I could be wrong about this story as this was like…100 years ago.

Outlaw

As an OCD Swede I had trouble with that the whole “museum” was very run down and dirty. Also, the cars appeared to not be well taken care of.

Red Baron

Who did not have a model of this one?? I sure did, back in Sweden in the late 60’s?

Mail Box Trike

Beatnik Bandit

Druid Princess

 The Addams Family TV series that ran on ABC-TV needed an appropriate vehicle for the Adams family. Roth and his team responded with Druid Princess.

Not a Roth car but worth an honorable mention, the roadster pick up seen on the Happy Days show.

Another car worth mentioning was the Beatles Flower Power painted Rolls Royce.

What really blows my mind about this is that it was about FORTY years ago!!

1949 Ford Convertible

After the war ended in 1945, Americans were eager to get back to work and that included the possibility of buying new cars and trucks. Because of the war effort, the design of cars were less important and buyers were happy to get any kind of transportation. The early postwar cars pretty much looked like they did before the war.

However, Ford knew that the world was ready for new design and they introduced the all new Ford in 1949.

Let’s take a look at what Ford advertising told us about the new car:

New “Mid-ship” Ride with independent Hydra-Coil front springs plus the velvet smooth action of the lubricated for life Para-Flex parallel rear springs.

The finest, the costliest cars in America accent visibility.  So does the new Ford with “Picture Window” all around.

There is Magic in the air!

Cool car!

1966 Ford Shortbed 4X4 Truck, Part 3

I had a professional shop install the NOS bed corner and it look great. They also sandblasted the inside of the bed.

The tail gate is straightest even. It was probably was not even that perfect when new.

Here is my dilemma: I have a new business (motorcycle sales and customs) so I need a low truck so I can transport motorcycles.

I need to sell this truck. The truck was originally in Sahara Beige, code H. Ford Code M-1912.  Not a very exciting color perse. I was thinking of painting the truck Wimbledon White as it was a stock option and I can probably get away with not repainting the inside.

Or…do I offer it as is as a canvas for the next owner. It would look amazing in red for example. If I kept the truck I would probably go red.

What say you?

What is it worth as is? Thoughts?

 

 

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 7

Nothing like a freshly blasted frame to work with. I want to install boxing plates so having a clean frame will make for good welds.

I used my plasma cutter to make the boxing plates from 1/8 inch steel plate.

I use a 1/2 thick plate as a guide for the plasma cutter to get straight cuts. Tip: Make sure the edge on the guide is smooth so when you drag the cutter along it does not hang up. The smoother the movement, the cleaner the cut.

I heart my plasma cutter. Besides, making it a snap to make the boxing plates I also used to cut needed holes. I made these templates from old bearing races.

Just clamp on and zip around with the plasma cutter.

Done!

The holes are for access points for bolts that hold the body to the frame. Also, some will be used to run wiring.

I set the boxing plates inside the frame about 1/4 inch. This is a win X 4. Why?

Win 1. I don’t have to dress the welds.

Win 2. Grinding the welds would weaken them anyway.

Win 3. The recessed plates offers some extra room and protection for brake and fuel lines.

Win 4. This still leaves a stock and good looking inside edge.

This particular hole is used for holding the fender and also the hood latch. The boxing plates ends up right under this hole so I made an opening just big enough to handle a 7/16 wrench. You know, to hold the nut. It is important to have a firm grip on your nuts.
 With the new Walker radiator in place I can confirm the location of the Volvo engine.
I just had to make sure that the radiator location fits with the location of the body so the hood gaps are acceptable.
 Frame motor mount mounts templated and will be welded to the boxing plates.
This is obviously not a true traditional build, it is going to be a driver with capital “D” so I opted for a new Vega steering box. A little tight with the steering box but it has to be where is has to be. The drag link dictates the location.
Knowing the approximate rake of the frame and body in ride height, I can make sure the engine is level with earth.
Motor mount raw…
Motor mount finished. I love to make parts that looks like they are cast.
I am using Lincoln style Wilson Welding self energizing brakes for the front.
In order to make the Lincoln backing plates fit flush on the spindle flange I had to remove some material to make the flush with the surface.
Good to know info: The part number for the brake hose for the Wilson Lincoln brakes is Wagner # F49927 or NAPA UP36531
I just made some tabs for the hoses.
Since I am going to use a 1932 tank attached to the rear of the frame I had to install the rear shocks in front of the axle. They were mounted directly to the 1936 rods.
The front shocks will be installed using Ford F-100 shock mounts. They will need some modification to fit under the fenders.
I love the smell of excited molecules in the morning.
Mo later…

1966 Ford Shortbed 4X4 Truck, Part 2

With a new rubber mat and reconditioned rubber boots the floor looks like new again. No, those silly fridge magnets on the glove box will not stay.
I cleaned up the rubber boots and painted the trim. I decided not to paint the shifter and 4X selector as I feel the patina tells a story.
New seat covers, new foam and to repair broken springs will run over $500.00. That was not in the budget. A trip to Pick & Pull yard yielded this bench seat for fiddy bucks. Works for me. I do plan to paint the steering wheel and I found a very nice horn ring at the swap meet.

The sun visor were toast so I opted for a new set. The truck only had one but I will add one for the passenger side. New headliner is ordered.

I tried to live with the dirty and dusty speedo but it got the best of me. It was filled with fine Yakima dust.

They really went out of their way when the installed the colored lenses for the indicator lights!  They were just taped on with clear tape. Fast forward 50 years and what is left of the tape is dark brown.
I took it apart and cleaned everything including the facia. I also put a fresh coat of paint on the dash panel and replaced all the bulbs.

The old door mirror was ugly and had bad glass. Found a nice mirror at the swap for five bucks.

I made a new rod from stainless tubing and polished it.
Found this super nice radio that will fill the spot where the ugly cassette deck was.
Now I am starting to like this rig and I can’t drive around like this.
The right bed corner is pretty banged up but I just found an NOS corner.
The truck is now with the best metal man in town and the bed will be like new.
 

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 6

I decided this car should have A/C and there is not a good way to hide the evaporator in a model A grille.

So…the decision was made to procure one of them fancy-schmancy 1932 grille. As the grille sits further forward on the radiator and it has a separate insert it will be easier to hide the evaporator.

I ordered the radiator from Walker. I got a four row unit made for a hot small block. Why? ‘Cause I may want one of those some day. Since the inlet/outlet is at the same location on the Volvo engine, all I have to do is add some adapters.

It may seem premature to order the radiator at this stage but the thickness and location will determine the engine location.

Using an old Ford to haul old Ford parts. The frame is going to blasting so I have a clean surface to install boxing plates.1966 Ford F100 4X4 short bed is a great work horse.

The firewall have this indentation for the fuel outlet.

Because A/C I will need all the under dash space I can get so the that funky indentation need to be gone.

I also carried the bottom ridge across the firewall for a consistent look.

The OCD in me want to remove the driver’s side bead but I am going to run swing pedals and they add strength to the firewall.

More OCD issues. The firewall brackets for the hood rods were in good condition but I had to remove them as there could be some crud behind them…and there were…some…crud. I feel better now!

The wood under the visor was replaced at some point but it did not fit well so I decided to remove it.

 

Wood header gone!

The vinyl used for the top was in good condition but it was un-even and kinda lumpy so it had to go as well. This OCD condition is really a problem!!

Since the windshield is attached to the wood header I had to come up with an alternative. This flat bar with nuts welded to it will now hold the windshield.

The windshield frame had several holes presumably from a wiper assembly. Since my wiper motor is now going to be hidden in the header panel, the are no longer needed.

Do you know where holes go after they are punched out? Well, some companies sells them to guys like me.

I made this “spade” of copper to hold the filler piece. Weld does not stick to copper.

Also, I use the copper when I weld up the smaller holes, it prevent the melted steel to blow out on the other side.

Works like a charm.
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Jumping around a bit but there is a lot to cover:

This is the base for steel railing and I am sure you can picture this part bolted to the floor. I found this at a steel supply house for a $1.50 and it will be perfect as the base for the steering column.

 I spent a fair amount of time repairing the sheet metal on the aprons due to stress cracks. No rust, just stress cracks.

These are seats from a 1964 MG Midget. They will be great for this hot rod.

You can go out and spend lots of money are snazzy pedal assemblies or…cut these out of a scrapped Volvo. Since I am using a Volvo engine it makes sense to use these. The clutch is hydraulic and we know the geometry will be perfect. They are light weight, have internal returns springs, quiet nylon bushings, tapered and hollow. Did I say they are good looking too??

Held in place with a clamp they look like they will be perfect. More on this later…

One concern with the 1932 grille shell was if the hood line would be correct. Well, this profile picture confirms that it will be…you know…perfect.

Of course, with a profile picture like this I just had to do a little Photo Chopping. I don’t think I will chop this car the first season but damn, that look pretty good!

Part Seven here

 

1966 Ford Shortbed 4X4 Truck, Part 1

 So this just happened: A 1966 Ford F100 4X4 short bed followed me home.

A friend owned this truck but I did not think about it much when I walked past this flesh colored truck many times. Anyway, he said he did not use it anymore so he was going to sell it. I need a truck to haul my Model A parts around so why not?

This is an original, rust free Eastern WA truck. Sold new at Walla Walla Teague Motor Company to Marshall Farm Company and lived as a spray truck.

Teague Motor Company just closed it’s doors in 2005.

Apparently, Ford referred to the Vehicle Identification Number as  “warranty number” at the time. Also, the new owner of the vehicle got this warranty card to present to the dealer when they were in for service. In GM land they called this the protect-o-plate.
The seat was torn and the rubber mat was toast so I discarded it.
The floors are perfect with just some surface rust.
After A light sanding and some paint it will last another 60 years. I also added some sound deadening material.
I cleaned up the inside of the doors and added sound deadener as well. It makes a big difference.

These trailer wheels ain’t makin’ it! Also, the raised white lettering is soo 1980.

I had these Cadillac wheel covers for over twenty years, serving as garage art. It is time to put them to use. Using a GM part on a FORD you say?? If you don’t say anything, it will just be a secret between you, me and the internet.
The size of the center cap is slightly larger than the locking hubs, so I opened up that area and is perfect for the front wheels. I also reversed the tires for black wall.

This truck was painted during the great masking tape shortage of 2005! Horrible times when cars rolled out of the paint booth with chrome covered in paint.

There…fixed. shiny = good!

I think the black walls and wheel covers dressed up the truck pretty well. I still have work to do on the interior, we will do that next.

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 5

Someone tried to open the door with an axe, not recommended.
In order to get access, I removed the inner panel.

Using a good door as a donor, I got myself a repair panel.

A little mud and some primer and we got ourselves a snazzy new door. I spent a lot of time to make sure the door fit the body. Feels good to knock off another item on the list.

Next: headlights. I am guessing these are from a truck. They have a Ford script so they must be good, right?

They cleaned up good.

In order to prevent any binding in the spring, I made sure it has the same angle as the cross member. This will determine the location of the rear radius rods.
Turns out all roads leads to where the transmission cross member will be. By “roads” I mean the rear rods and the front split wishbones. Since that is the case, I will make the cross member the central mounting point for all rods.
The rear rods will be connected in one central swivel point just like Ford designed it.
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