1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 7

Nothing like a freshly blasted frame to work with. I want to install boxing plates so having a clean frame will make for good welds.

I used my plasma cutter to make the boxing plates from 1/8 inch steel plate.

I use a 1/2 thick plate as a guide for the plasma cutter to get straight cuts. Tip: Make sure the edge on the guide is smooth so when you drag the cutter along it does not hang up. The smoother the movement, the cleaner the cut.

I heart my plasma cutter. Besides, making it a snap to make the boxing plates I also used to cut needed holes. I made these templates from old bearing races.

Just clamp on and zip around with the plasma cutter.

Done!

The holes are for access points for bolts that hold the body to the frame. Also, some will be used to run wiring.

I set the boxing plates inside the frame about 1/4 inch. This is a win X 4. Why?

Win 1. I don’t have to dress the welds.

Win 2. Grinding the welds would weaken them anyway.

Win 3. The recessed plates offers some extra room and protection for brake and fuel lines.

Win 4. This still leaves a stock and good looking inside edge.

This particular hole is used for holding the fender and also the hood latch. The boxing plates ends up right under this hole so I made an opening just big enough to handle a 7/16 wrench. You know, to hold the nut. It is important to have a firm grip on your nuts.
 With the new Walker radiator in place I can confirm the location of the Volvo engine.
I just had to make sure that the radiator location fits with the location of the body so the hood gaps are acceptable.
 Frame motor mount mounts templated and will be welded to the boxing plates.
This is obviously not a true traditional build, it is going to be a driver with capital “D” so I opted for a new Vega steering box. A little tight with the steering box but it has to be where is has to be. The drag link dictates the location.
Knowing the approximate rake of the frame and body in ride height, I can make sure the engine is level with earth.
Motor mount raw…
Motor mount finished. I love to make parts that looks like they are cast.
I am using Lincoln style Wilson Welding self energizing brakes for the front.
In order to make the Lincoln backing plates fit flush on the spindle flange I had to remove some material to make the flush with the surface.
Good to know info: The part number for the brake hose for the Wilson Lincoln brakes is Wagner # F49927 or NAPA UP36531
I just made some tabs for the hoses.
Since I am going to use a 1932 tank attached to the rear of the frame I had to install the rear shocks in front of the axle. They were mounted directly to the 1936 rods.
The front shocks will be installed using Ford F-100 shock mounts. They will need some modification to fit under the fenders.
I love the smell of excited molecules in the morning.
Mo later…

1966 Ford Shortbed 4X4 Truck, Part 2

With a new rubber mat and reconditioned rubber boots the floor looks like new again. No, those silly fridge magnets on the glove box will not stay.
I cleaned up the rubber boots and painted the trim. I decided not to paint the shifter and 4X selector as I feel the patina tells a story.
New seat covers, new foam and to repair broken springs will run over $500.00. That was not in the budget. A trip to Pick & Pull yard yielded this bench seat for fiddy bucks. Works for me. I do plan to paint the steering wheel and I found a very nice horn ring at the swap meet.

The sun visor were toast so I opted for a new set. The truck only had one but I will add one for the passenger side. New headliner is ordered.

I tried to live with the dirty and dusty speedo but it got the best of me. It was filled with fine Yakima dust.

They really went out of their way when the installed the colored lenses for the indicator lights!  They were just taped on with clear tape. Fast forward 50 years and what is left of the tape is dark brown.
I took it apart and cleaned everything including the facia. I also put a fresh coat of paint on the dash panel and replaced all the bulbs.

The old door mirror was ugly and had bad glass. Found a nice mirror at the swap for five bucks.

I made a new rod from stainless tubing and polished it.
Found this super nice radio that will fill the spot where the ugly cassette deck was.
Now I am starting to like this rig and I can’t drive around like this.
The right bed corner is pretty banged up but I just found an NOS corner.
The truck is now with the best metal man in town and the bed will be like new.
 

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 6

I decided this car should have A/C and there is not a good way to hide the evaporator in a model A grille.

So…the decision was made to procure one of them fancy-schmancy 1932 grille. As the grille sits further forward on the radiator and it has a separate insert it will be easier to hide the evaporator.

I ordered the radiator from Walker. I got a four row unit made for a hot small block. Why? ‘Cause I may want one of those some day. Since the inlet/outlet is at the same location on the Volvo engine, all I have to do is add some adapters.

It may seem premature to order the radiator at this stage but the thickness and location will determine the engine location.

Using an old Ford to haul old Ford parts. The frame is going to blasting so I have a clean surface to install boxing plates.1966 Ford F100 4X4 short bed is a great work horse.

The firewall have this indentation for the fuel outlet.

Because A/C I will need all the under dash space I can get so the that funky indentation need to be gone.

I also carried the bottom ridge across the firewall for a consistent look.

The OCD in me want to remove the driver’s side bead but I am going to run swing pedals and they add strength to the firewall.

More OCD issues. The firewall brackets for the hood rods were in good condition but I had to remove them as there could be some crud behind them…and there were…some…crud. I feel better now!

The wood under the visor was replaced at some point but it did not fit well so I decided to remove it.

 

Wood header gone!

The vinyl used for the top was in good condition but it was un-even and kinda lumpy so it had to go as well. This OCD condition is really a problem!!

Since the windshield is attached to the wood header I had to come up with an alternative. This flat bar with nuts welded to it will now hold the windshield.

The windshield frame had several holes presumably from a wiper assembly. Since my wiper motor is now going to be hidden in the header panel, the are no longer needed.

Do you know where holes go after they are punched out? Well, some companies sells them to guys like me.

I made this “spade” of copper to hold the filler piece. Weld does not stick to copper.

Also, I use the copper when I weld up the smaller holes, it prevent the melted steel to blow out on the other side.

Works like a charm.
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Jumping around a bit but there is a lot to cover:

This is the base for steel railing and I am sure you can picture this part bolted to the floor. I found this at a steel supply house for a $1.50 and it will be perfect as the base for the steering column.

 I spent a fair amount of time repairing the sheet metal on the aprons due to stress cracks. No rust, just stress cracks.

These are seats from a 1964 MG Midget. They will be great for this hot rod.

You can go out and spend lots of money are snazzy pedal assemblies or…cut these out of a scrapped Volvo. Since I am using a Volvo engine it makes sense to use these. The clutch is hydraulic and we know the geometry will be perfect. They are light weight, have internal returns springs, quiet nylon bushings, tapered and hollow. Did I say they are good looking too??

Held in place with a clamp they look like they will be perfect. More on this later…

One concern with the 1932 grille shell was if the hood line would be correct. Well, this profile picture confirms that it will be…you know…perfect.

Of course, with a profile picture like this I just had to do a little Photo Chopping. I don’t think I will chop this car the first season but damn, that look pretty good!

Part Seven here

 

1966 Ford Shortbed 4X4 Truck, Part 1

 So this just happened: A 1966 Ford F100 4X4 short bed followed me home.

A friend owned this truck but I did not think about it much when I walked past this flesh colored truck many times. Anyway, he said he did not use it anymore so he was going to sell it. I need a truck to haul my Model A parts around so why not?

This is an original, rust free Eastern WA truck. Sold new at Walla Walla Teague Motor Company to Marshall Farm Company and lived as a spray truck.

Teague Motor Company just closed it’s doors in 2005.

Apparently, Ford referred to the Vehicle Identification Number as  “warranty number” at the time. Also, the new owner of the vehicle got this warranty card to present to the dealer when they were in for service. In GM land they called this the protect-o-plate.
The seat was torn and the rubber mat was toast so I discarded it.
The floors are perfect with just some surface rust.
After A light sanding and some paint it will last another 60 years. I also added some sound deadening material.
I cleaned up the inside of the doors and added sound deadener as well. It makes a big difference.

These trailer wheels ain’t makin’ it! Also, the raised white lettering is soo 1980.

I had these Cadillac wheel covers for over twenty years, serving as garage art. It is time to put them to use. Using a GM part on a FORD you say?? If you don’t say anything, it will just be a secret between you, me and the internet.
The size of the center cap is slightly larger than the locking hubs, so I opened up that area and is perfect for the front wheels. I also reversed the tires for black wall.

This truck was painted during the great masking tape shortage of 2005! Horrible times when cars rolled out of the paint booth with chrome covered in paint.

There…fixed. shiny = good!

I think the black walls and wheel covers dressed up the truck pretty well. I still have work to do on the interior, we will do that next.

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 5

Someone tried to open the door with an axe, not recommended.
In order to get access, I removed the inner panel.

Using a good door as a donor, I got myself a repair panel.

A little mud and some primer and we got ourselves a snazzy new door. I spent a lot of time to make sure the door fit the body. Feels good to knock off another item on the list.

Next: headlights. I am guessing these are from a truck. They have a Ford script so they must be good, right?

They cleaned up good.

In order to prevent any binding in the spring, I made sure it has the same angle as the cross member. This will determine the location of the rear radius rods.
Turns out all roads leads to where the transmission cross member will be. By “roads” I mean the rear rods and the front split wishbones. Since that is the case, I will make the cross member the central mounting point for all rods.
The rear rods will be connected in one central swivel point just like Ford designed it.
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BMW Cafe Racer Build, Part IIII

The summer in the North West have been absolutely perfect for anyone enjoying motorcycles…and dry roads!

I have been busy riding the BMW Cafe bike to the point I have not spent much time working on it. I am really liking how it handles and the power available mostly because of the serious diet I exposed the bike to.

Like any project, there is always room for improvement especially on this bike as it was a quick build. Just in time for the monthly backfire moto meet in Seattle, I got this snazzy Monza style gas cap.

 

Made in Germany, it offers excellent fit and finish. It also added about 12 horsepower.

 

I am using the small Harley blinker for tail and stop light and they were not very bright. One of the most important things you can do on a motorcycle is to be seen!

I installed these super bright LED bulbs and I probably increase the output three fold while using less load on the electrical system.

Riding a stripped down bike means that there is no place to put things and I have to at least have some tools, right?

I found this tool box at a swap meet, I was told it was from an Honda. It ended up under the seat for now. I may move it to the front of the frame, behind the fork, we’ll see.

 

It holds all of the BMW factory tools.

I replaced the valve covers with a set of the older style valve covers, they definitely changes the vibe of the bike. Next…I would like to change the gauges, we’ll see what I can come up with.

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 4

Came up with a name for this build:

Project Swedish Banger Tudor 

Stress cracks fixed. Once I made sure the frame was square, I also welded all the cross members to the frame rails. This helped the rigidity greatly. If I were to put a V8 in this thing I would have blasted the frame and installed boxing plates but I am also trying to get on the road this year.

.I will use tube shocks so I will not need the dog bone attachment so it was cut off. It makes the spring hanger look cleaner anyway.

I will use polyurethane bushings in the shackles so these sleeves have to be removed. After 87 years they tend to be kinda stuck but a little heat and measured amount of violence will bring them out.

This is the stuff ricers use in their poly bushings to avoid squeak. Bushing squeak sux especially if you don’t have a radio to drown out the noise!

These are 1940 Ford rear torque rods and they are much stronger and they look better than the model A part. Since I am going to loose the torque tube and run a open drive shaft, I will need some sort of torque rods for the rear axle as well.

The front end will consist of split 1936 wishbones, a 4 inch dropped axle and a reversed eye spring, self energizing Lincoln brakes, Wilson hubs and Buick finned aluminum drums. I love self energizing brakes, I just hate to have to energize them myself!
I would love an original Ford dropped axle but time demanded a quick solution. Because of the dropped axle I will have to use deep drop steering arms to clear the wish bones. a Vega box with cross steer will help this hot rod go down the road straight.
So where are we going to put this engine? How about right about here…?

I had to angle the left motor mount to clear the location of the Vega steering box. Maybe not pretty but it works. Chrome Swedish valve cover on dirty motor for effect!

There…engine is mounted.

I am telling you…Henry planned for a Volvo with four speed overdrive in the model A chassis!

Sometimes you have to roll it out for perspective. Now I realized that I need to make the trans cross member the attachment point for both front bones AND the 1940 rear radius rods.

Mo later…

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 3

Holy Model A body, Batman! The body just took flight!

A lonely frame waiting for better times.

With the body off the frame it is very easy to disassemble the rest.

Front and rear suspension comes apart with just a few bolts. You really appreciate…well, at least I do appreciate how simple these cars are.

Hey, it’s a model A starter kit!

The frame is so clean it actually have some black paint still on it.

The goal is to drive this car to the Goodguys show in Puyallup in late July. This will not be easy but who doesn’t like a challenge. Because of the limited time, this will not be a highly detailed hot rod. My emphasis for now will be on stance, rake, drivability and of course safety.

1931 Ford Model A Tudor Hot Rod Project, part 2

Some assembly required…after re-installing the fenders and a few more things I think I have decided to leave the patina as is. As solid as it is, I think it would be a shame to SANDBLAST and RESTORE this car. Then it would just be another shiny car.

Here is the story on it. It was used as a mail carrier in the Badlands, South Dakota. The engine gave up in 1958 and it was stored indoors until 1990 when the second owner found it. He also stored it indoors until two weeks ago when your truly became the custodian.

All of the interior is missing and the engine head is cracked so I have a clean canvas to work with.

Besides, body and paint is expensive. I will concentrate on wheels and tyres, stance, drivability, safety and comfort.

I am thinking:

Vega box with cross steer, split 1936 .’bones, drobbed axle with reversed eye spring, Lincoln brake with Buick drums, 1957 Ford column and steering wheel…for starters.

Engine…I got some ideas..

Swap Meet Loot

There is nothing more exciting than getting the parts together for a hot rod build. You have a car and a plan (hopefully!) but it needs various components. Ya sure, you can whip out your Visa card, go on the great wide internet and buy a new part or even worse, a new blister packed part! There is no sport in that!
The hunt for good used parts is the most exciting, finding the right part at the right price is the most rewarding. Sometimes the part acquired completes or improves the car, sometimes both.
To look at it more philosophically, these parts were made almost 90 years ago and who knows what they have been through or where they have been. Now, they are coming together to complete a car. How cool is that?? As a matter of fact, one parted out car may put ten other vintage cars back on the road.
Why be straight when you can be bent? Kelsey Hayes bent spoke 16 inch accessory wheels will be the rolling stock on this build. Tires will probably be 7:00 in rear, 5:25-5:50 in front. I don’t know what color for the rims yet. The swap meet is also where you can pick up twenty new 1/2 inch by twenty lug nuts for the above wheels for ten bucks.
This very nice grill shell replaces the butchered one. Quite the improvement, wouldn’t you say?

A 1931 license plate will license the car for life.

 

These ugly fender are in great condition in the areas where mine are weak. We will do some slicing and dicing.

 

Also, the cheap Swede in me appreciates a good value like the unused $69.95 P&J shocks for five American pesos.

This is a ’37 spare tire cover. I also have the surround part. Since this is going to be a driver, I think a spare tire will make sense. Who has time to call AAA when you are on the poker run, you just gotta go!

Let’s do some work!

This is the right side frame horn. The fender brace came off and this probably reflects multiple attempts to re-attach it using stick welders. Now it is just a big lump of “weld”

After removing what seemed to be a lbs of “weld”, the frame horn is ready to be reattached. If this was going to be a highboy I would probably replace this piece but the fenders will cover it.

Tacked for now so I can test fit the fenders.

Hey, it’s a model A fender patch panel. I will scribe the outline and hopefully it will fit!
Mo later…

2006 Toyota Tacoma X-Runner w. 29K miles! for sale

2006 Toyota Tacoma X-Runner with 29000 miles! Yup, it is a unicorn!

Local, 2 adult owners since new. The truck did not see water for ten years. Oil was changed every thousand miles with synthetic oil for the first ten years.

The truck is like new. Non smoker. Comes with dealer brochure, original window sticker, even the Toyota watch and test crash dummy key fob. Two keys with remote. Recent performance tires. All stock except a K&N air filter.

Extang soft bed cover.

Power Window, Power mirrors, cruise control, sliding rear window, 110V power outlet

$16,500.00 in WA state

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